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<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nMost<\/em> of the time when the cloth doesn\u2019t match the drawdown, it\u2019s because you\u2019ve used a rising shed tie-up on a sinking shed loom or vice versa. All that\u2019s happening in that situation is that the fabric is weaving upside down, with warp where you\u2019d expect weft, and weft where you\u2019d expect warp. You can \u201cfix\u201d that by changing the tie-up, but that isn\u2019t really necessary because nothing\u2019s really broken: as soon as you take the fabric off the loom and flip it over, all is well. <\/p>\n\n\n\n To see if this is your problem, simply look at the back side of the fabric! Alternately, if you have the draft open in drafting software<\/p>\n\n\n\n This works best if the draft is in the same colors you’re using on the loom, since that can confuse matters. <\/p>\n\n\n\n To show you what I mean, here are the two sides of the draft in Handweaving.net’s Draft Editor<\/a>, now in Susan\u2019s colors (which I did using Choose Colors from Image<\/em>, also in the Draft Editor):<\/p>\n\n\n\n You can see that Susan\u2019s fabric doesn\u2019t look like the back side of the original draft either: <\/p>\n\n\n\n I could tell right away that this wasn\u2019t Susan\u2019s problem, because the motifs didn\u2019t match<\/em>. If the cloth was just upside down, she would have still seen the same diamonds in the same places, they\u2019d just have been blue instead of gold or vice versa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To see that the motifs don’t match, compare the original drawdown to Susan’s fabric:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The big diamonds in Susan’s fabric look similar to the drawdown but they’re not quite<\/em> right somehow. The diamonds above and beside the big diamonds aren’t right either, and the small diamonds kitty-corner to the big ones are gone entirely<\/em>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n So\u2026 what IS going on here if it isn\u2019t simply that the cloth is weaving upside down?<\/p>\n\n\n\n The clue lies in the shape of the big diamonds.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n Take a close look at the big, bold diamonds:<\/p>\n\n\n\n At first glance, it may look like drawdown and fabric match, but if you draw vertical and horizontal lines through the middle of each section\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2026you can see that the drawdown has an X (or \u201ccross\u201d) in each quadrant, whereas the blue and gold fabric has a diamond in place of the cross. The very center of the drawdown, where the vertical and horizontal lines intersect, is also a cross, whereas the lines intersect over a diamond in the fabric. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This was my clue to what happened to Susan\u2019s draft. <\/p>\n\n\n\n I\u2019m most used to seeing this kind of switch, from cross to diamond, in overshot. When you switch from star fashion to rose fashion, anything that was a cross becomes a diamond, and anything that was a diamond becomes a cross. (Stars also become roses and vice versa.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n What\u2019s happening in the general case is that the direction of the diagonals is switching from \/ to \\ and vice versa<\/strong>. That\u2019s what’s happening in overshot when you go from star to rose, and what’s happening in twill when you go from cross to diamond.<\/p>\n\n\n\n To see what I mean, take a look at this cross, which is made up of four short diagonals\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2026and look what happens if we take each individual piece<\/em> of that cross and flip it horizontally:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now we\u2019ve got a diamond instead! <\/p>\n\n\n\n This is exactly what has happened to Susan\u2019s big diamonds. The drawdown looks like this:<\/p>\n\n\n\n But the fabric looks like this:<\/p>\n\n\n\n So clearly the diagonals had reversed direction. But how did this happen??<\/p>\n\n\n\n As discussed at length in Cookies & Clocks<\/em> and also several of the exercises in Angled Twills<\/em> and Undulating Twills<\/em>, you can reverse the direction of twill diagonals in one of three ways:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Susan was sure that she\u2019d threaded the loom correctly and that she was treadling following the draft, so all that was left was the tie-up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Sure enough, if you take the original draft #80355 and flip its tie-up horizontally, you go from this\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2026to this:<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u2026and THAT looks like Susan\u2019s fabric, right down to the missing diamonds in the top middle:<\/p>\n\n\n\n That’s the mystery of Susan’s fabric solved! <\/p>\n\n\n\n It’s useful to know how to recognize when the tie-up is flipped when you didn’t mean it to be, sure: it’ll save you some frustration at the loom, and that’s always a good thing! However, another take away here is that you can flip a twill tie-up horizontally or vertically to increase your design options<\/strong>. (Note that this applies to twill tie-ups; your mileage may vary for other structures, if it works at all.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
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Not just an upside down tie-up<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Reversing the diagonals<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nFlipping a tie-up horizontally<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Flip or shift a twill tie-up for extra diamondy goodness<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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