Step 1: Assess the Projec<\/strong>t before Wet Finishing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Before](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-2-rotated.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nThe first step is to evaluate my project honestly and at a macro level to determine if it\u2019s suitable for its intended purpose. I ask myself:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Did the structure perform as intended?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the weaving width fairly consistent across the cloth?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the length appropriate?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Does the drape work for my needs?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Do the colors complement each other?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the weaving consistent?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Are there any glaring errors I\u2019m trying to ignore?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
If my initial impression is disappointing and there are significant flaws, I document the mistakes, set the cloth aside, and move on. I can always revisit it later with fresh eyes to cut, sew, or repurpose it. There\u2019s no point in hemming and finishing a piece I\u2019m not happy with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the basics are sound, I move on to Step 2.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 2: Clip and review in more detail
<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Clip](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-1-rotated.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nNext, I clip the weft ends to about 0.5\u20131 inch and take another step back to assess the fabric from a few feet away. I ask:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Are there any noticeable threading or tension issues?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Does the fabric have a clear “top” or “right” side?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
At this stage, I mentally note any errors for further assessment in the next step. For this project, I\u2019m happy with its potential as a table runner. One side looks more appealing, so I mark it as the \u201cright\u201d side before proceeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 3: Identify errors<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"Checking](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-3-rotated.jpg\" "\\"\\"")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nNow, I closely examine the cloth for threading or treadling mistakes and assess how many skipped threads or other errors I want to fix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For this project, a warp thread broke, and I rethreaded it into the wrong heddle eye about one-third of the way into the weaving. I could reweave a new warp end and remove the old one, which might only take about 30 minutes since the piece is 36 inches long. But realistically, how many people will notice the mistake? It\u2019s hard to spot from a distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The more significant issue is the selvages. Working with floating selvages is still new for me, and it\u2019s challenging to establish the smooth rhythm one can achieve on a floor loom, on a rigid heddle. Additionally, the fragile silver crochet yarn I used frayed in places, exacerbating the problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 4: Decide on corrections<\/strong> before wet finishing<\/h2>\n\n\n\nAt this point, I decide how to handle the issues I found. I’d fix every flaw if this piece were for a competition or show. Since it\u2019s a personal project, I weigh what I can tolerate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For this table runner, I opted to leave the threading error as-is because it\u2019s barely noticeable. However, I addressed the selvages.
After considering options like a crocheted edge or blanket stitching, I chose a simple solution: folding the selvages like a rolled hem and tacking them down with a running stitch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Since only one side will be visible, this approach worked well and looks tidy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 5: Trim and Hem<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nNow it\u2019s time to trim the fringe and decide whether to twist it or hem the project. I can hem the towels before wet finishing or after, preferences vary here. Since I\u2019m hand-sewing wide, forgiving hems, I opted to hem first and then wet-finish. If I were hemming multiple towels by machine, I\u2019d wet-finish first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-8-rotated.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nStep 6: Wet finishing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Time for a bath! Wet-finishing methods vary depending on the fiber and intended use. For this table runner, I plan to hand wash it, as it won\u2019t get dirty often.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here\u2019s my process:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Soak the cloth in warm water.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Aggressively pull the fabric on the bias to help redistribute uneven weft picks, as I\u2019m not using a washing machine.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Let the cloth soak for an hour to relax the fibers.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-12-rotated.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-13-rotated.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nNote:<\/em> I skipped soap to see if the deep blue dye might bleed, but soap is fine to use.<\/p>\n\n\n\nAfter soaking, I wrung the cloth dry and laid it flat to dry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 7: Final Touches<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nOnce dry, I trimmed all weft and warp ends close to the cloth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ironing depends on the fiber and your preferences. Since my table runner contains linen, I pressed it while damp using high heat and firm pressure to achieve a crisp, wrinkle-free finish. Other fibers might require light pressing, steaming, or brushing to enhance their texture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Enjoy Your Finished Cloth!<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/Finishing-16.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/strong>I never really use table runners, but I love having a handwoven piece greet me whenever I grab a cup of coffee in the morning. This project will live as a shelf liner in our 1940s cabinets- our kitchen is blue and white, so it’s perfect!<\/p>\n\n\n\nThough the weaving process feels complete, this is just the beginning of the cloth\u2019s life. It will wear, fade, soften, and wrinkle over time\u2014transforming into something unique and cherished, much like the Velveteen Rabbit<\/em> when it became \u201creal.\u201d I<\/p>\n\n\n\nDon\u2019t be too precious about it. Use it, enjoy it, and start planning your next weaving project!<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/carly-sig-grey-1.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe first step is to evaluate my project honestly and at a macro level to determine if it\u2019s suitable for its intended purpose. I ask myself:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Did the structure perform as intended?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the weaving width fairly consistent across the cloth?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the length appropriate?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Does the drape work for my needs?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Do the colors complement each other?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Is the weaving consistent?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Are there any glaring errors I\u2019m trying to ignore?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
If my initial impression is disappointing and there are significant flaws, I document the mistakes, set the cloth aside, and move on. I can always revisit it later with fresh eyes to cut, sew, or repurpose it. There\u2019s no point in hemming and finishing a piece I\u2019m not happy with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the basics are sound, I move on to Step 2.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 2: Clip and review in more detail
<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nNext, I clip the weft ends to about 0.5\u20131 inch and take another step back to assess the fabric from a few feet away. I ask:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Are there any noticeable threading or tension issues?<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Does the fabric have a clear “top” or “right” side?<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
At this stage, I mentally note any errors for further assessment in the next step. For this project, I\u2019m happy with its potential as a table runner. One side looks more appealing, so I mark it as the \u201cright\u201d side before proceeding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 3: Identify errors<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nNow, I closely examine the cloth for threading or treadling mistakes and assess how many skipped threads or other errors I want to fix.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For this project, a warp thread broke, and I rethreaded it into the wrong heddle eye about one-third of the way into the weaving. I could reweave a new warp end and remove the old one, which might only take about 30 minutes since the piece is 36 inches long. But realistically, how many people will notice the mistake? It\u2019s hard to spot from a distance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The more significant issue is the selvages. Working with floating selvages is still new for me, and it\u2019s challenging to establish the smooth rhythm one can achieve on a floor loom, on a rigid heddle. Additionally, the fragile silver crochet yarn I used frayed in places, exacerbating the problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 4: Decide on corrections<\/strong> before wet finishing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
At this point, I decide how to handle the issues I found. I’d fix every flaw if this piece were for a competition or show. Since it\u2019s a personal project, I weigh what I can tolerate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For this table runner, I opted to leave the threading error as-is because it\u2019s barely noticeable. However, I addressed the selvages.
After considering options like a crocheted edge or blanket stitching, I chose a simple solution: folding the selvages like a rolled hem and tacking them down with a running stitch.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSince only one side will be visible, this approach worked well and looks tidy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 5: Trim and Hem<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Now it\u2019s time to trim the fringe and decide whether to twist it or hem the project. I can hem the towels before wet finishing or after, preferences vary here. Since I\u2019m hand-sewing wide, forgiving hems, I opted to hem first and then wet-finish. If I were hemming multiple towels by machine, I\u2019d wet-finish first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\nStep 6: Wet finishing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Time for a bath! Wet-finishing methods vary depending on the fiber and intended use. For this table runner, I plan to hand wash it, as it won\u2019t get dirty often.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here\u2019s my process:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Soak the cloth in warm water.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Aggressively pull the fabric on the bias to help redistribute uneven weft picks, as I\u2019m not using a washing machine.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Let the cloth soak for an hour to relax the fibers.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
Note:<\/em> I skipped soap to see if the deep blue dye might bleed, but soap is fine to use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
After soaking, I wrung the cloth dry and laid it flat to dry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Step 7: Final Touches<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Once dry, I trimmed all weft and warp ends close to the cloth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ironing depends on the fiber and your preferences. Since my table runner contains linen, I pressed it while damp using high heat and firm pressure to achieve a crisp, wrinkle-free finish. Other fibers might require light pressing, steaming, or brushing to enhance their texture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Enjoy Your Finished Cloth!<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/strong>I never really use table runners, but I love having a handwoven piece greet me whenever I grab a cup of coffee in the morning. This project will live as a shelf liner in our 1940s cabinets- our kitchen is blue and white, so it’s perfect!<\/p>\n\n\n\nThough the weaving process feels complete, this is just the beginning of the cloth\u2019s life. It will wear, fade, soften, and wrinkle over time\u2014transforming into something unique and cherished, much like the Velveteen Rabbit<\/em> when it became \u201creal.\u201d I<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Don\u2019t be too precious about it. Use it, enjoy it, and start planning your next weaving project!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/handweavingacademy.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/lesson-or-course-icon-330x330-2.png\"){kind=icon}
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n